Part 1: Removal
Part 2: Installation
There are several steps to installing the tucked bumpers.
To install the front tucked bumper, you'll need to remove the OEM bumper, and the inner crossmember (link to article). You can re-use the crossmember with some modification, but we'll get to that later.
The first step is to trim the headlight ears back. There are a few small tabs that are a part of the fiberglass header panel assembly. These serve no purpose and must be cut down to provide ample space for the bumper.
As you can see in the photo, the tab can just be trimmed off. This can be accomplished with a rotary tool (like a dremel) or simply with a saw blade by hand. You can then trim the tab down with a rough grit sandpaper, such as a 60 or 100 grit until smooth. The surface should be flush with the header panel when complete.
The front impact absorbers need to either be moved back on the frame, or pushed in to allow for the OEM crossmember to be retained. For the purposes of this installation, we are going to move the stock impact absorbers back on the frame.
To accomplish this, we are going to remove the 2 bolts that attach the absorbers to the frame of the car. You can then drill 2 new holes behind the existing holes on the bracket (see image). These holes should be drilled approximately 3 inches to the rear of the existing holes.
The front bumper itself should be independent of the crossmember (it will not bolt on directly to the crossmember. In fact, it only attaches to the header panel (where the grill is) and the quarter panels. Simply drill two small holes on each bumper flange (where the bumper and quarter panel meet), and mark those spots on your front fender. Then drill the fender holes and install hardware.
If there is a gab between the top header panel and the front bumper, this can be closed by adding additional nuts/bolts or screws. This will suck the top end up and remove any unwanted gap (note some gap is normal, and the original bumpers had a small gap.
Now that the fiberglass bumper is installed, you'll want to reinstall the front crossmember for safety. The impact absorbers will be further back on the frame rails, so be sure to account for that.
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One of the first places to start when working on a Mustang II is typically the front and rear bumpers. The factory bumper covers were made out of a very flexible urethane, with a very thin metal backing. This meant that not only would the inside of the bumper (and bolts and hardware) rust and warp over time, but the urethane would also degrade. This causes the bumpers to sag, look "wavy" and suffer from cracking paint.
Additionally, there is a bumper trim strip that is part of the factory bumper assembly. This is a rubber strip that runs the length of the bumper and is secured inside of a channel. This is often one of the first things that people want to remove or "delete" to obtain a cleaner looking profile.
The structure on the inside of the bumper cover, called the crossmember, is meant to absorb the impact when in a collision. It is attached to 2 pistons that are meant to collapse when in a low speed impact. These can usually be retained if rust and/or time has not caused it to degrade too much. The crossmember is the link between the outer urethane shell and the impact absorbers. It bolts directly onto a plate that is welded to the "pistons" and, when unbolted, allows the whole bumper assembly to come free
A lot of people don't like the bulbous look of the mid 70's bumpers and are in search of a sleeker, more modern, profile. As such, there are a number of different bumpers available on the market:
Both the Cobra II and King Cobra both utilize the same factory bumper, the only difference being that there is a valance and spoiler (Cobra II) or full air dam (King Cobra) below the bumper. The factory bumpers still protrude past the air dam or spoiler, and are still meant to absorb a slow impact. It is important to note that all bumper options are compatible with either the Cobra II or King Cobra, except for the R Apron, which covers the whole of the front of the car.
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Mustang II seat upholstery came from the factory in a variety of colors and combinations. Reproduced seat upholstery may not be suitable for concourse level restorations, but are an extremely close match to the original patterns and colors. However, it should be noted that almost all interiors will have some degree of color fading over time, so a reproduction vinyl seat may be closer to the original color from the factory than what is currently in each car.
Part 1: Seat Cover Removal
Before starting your project, you're going to want to remove the original vinyl seat covers from your seats. You want to confirm that the foam underneath is suitable for new covers (almost all foam is unless it's sat outside in the elements), and clean any rust off of the original seat frame. Note that there is no reproduction seat frame or springs available.
Tech Notes:
Video below outlines the entire process of removing the vinyl in great detail
About: The seats are not particularly challenging to install. You can easily install a seat cover in an afternoon, and make it look great. There are a number of tips and tricks that you can use for a successful installation
Tech Notes:
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The Mustang II Dash insert kit is produced by Classic Auto Reproductions and is laser cut to ensure a tight fit. There are a number of combinations available based on if you have air conditioning and/or a clock on the passenger side.
Instructions: